Feb
13
2008
You know those consumer warnings on packaging — “Remove cap before use” and that sort of thing? Those are there because of people like me. My map of Guatemala should have come with a disclaimer: “Not for use near open flame.” While sitting at my desk drinking tea, I lit a blue candle (I hear [...]
Feb
12
2008
Las Marías makes the best coffee in Central America. I rounded out my morning cup with a PB&J sandwich and a pack of M&Ms. On the front porch I met up with three jóvenes and our guía for a tour of Las Marías’ private cave called K’an Ba. Since it’s not commercial it has no [...]
Feb
11
2008
Palabra of the day: tumulo. It means “speed bump.” At 8:00 a.m. I went to stand on the road to Ciudad Vieja where a million chicken buses blasted by as I awaited my ride to Cobán. Forty-five minutes later I’d just about given up and my shoulders had nearly pulled from their sockets on account [...]