Palabra of the day: tumulo. It means “speed bump.” At 8:00 a.m. I went to stand on the road to Ciudad Vieja where a million chicken buses blasted by as I awaited my ride to Cobí¡n. Forty-five minutes later I’d just about given up and my shoulders had nearly pulled from their sockets on account of my backpack when Cesí¡r pulled up. The van was packed and the only remaining spot was on a ridge […]
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